The Suicide Temple of Varanasi

Dying in Varanasi has a special benefit. Those who pass in the holy city of Varanasi, go straight to the heaven. For this reason religious people have been coming to the city when they see their end nearing since the ancient time.

But what if one cannot wait to die naturally? Committing suicide is a way; but suicide is condemned in the sacred scriptures. To address this dilemma, a temple situated deep inside the formidable maze of narrow streets of this ancient city, had a curious solution– Suicide assisted by priests.
The Kashi Karvat temple holds no particular significance today; but it was supposedly a short-cut to the heaven in the past.
The entrance of the Kashi Karvat temple (Photo by Yogesh Agrawal)
The entrance of the Kashi Karvat temple (Photo by Yogesh Agrawal)
Historian Jonathan Parry observes in his book titled Death in Banaras:
It is said that in a less corrupt age a karvat, or saw, was suspended from the roof of the shrine and would spontaneously fall on those on whom Shiva chose to bestow his blessing.
However, Christopher Justice describes in Dying the Good Death: The Pilgrimage to Die in India’s Holy City:
The temple is focused around a hole in the floor which opens into a large cavernous room below. On the floor of this room, about 30 feet down and directly below the opening, is a Shiva linga—the phallic, stone emblem of Shiva and main focus of his worship—which the pujari says sprang out of the ground on its own accord. He explained that the lower floor level was the original level of the city of Kashi, before a lot of people lived there and the level was gradually built up. The temple takes its name from the karvat (weapon or saw) which used to be down in this lower room, the opening. Before British times, people used to come and obtain moksha by throwing themselves down the hole and onto the blade, thus killing themselves. They would go straight to heaven, as from the temple, below this room, there is a direct water connection with the Ganges.

Was it only suicide?

Scholar and writer Rana Singh writes in his book Banaras: Making of India’s Heritage City:
On the name Of moksha, the Brahmin priests of the temple of Kashi Karvat were religiously murdering innocent and devout Hindus (cf. Justice 1997: 43-45) This place was used by the pandas and pujaris (priests) to persuade pilgrims to commit ritual suicide during the medieval period (16th-17th centuries). According to local sources these pandas would throw innocent devotees from the upper part of the well, where they would fall on a big sword kept there. Their wealth was taken by the pandas. By the description of Mallik Muhammad Jayasi, a contemporary of Akbar (r. 1556-1605) and Alexander Hamilton (1744) it was clear that the tradition of killing people or ritualistic suicide was already in practice.
Food for thought.

How was the temple named Kashi Karvat

Kashi is a popular and ancient name for the city and Karvat is a Hindi word with more than one meaning.
According the popular belief, Karvat of Kashi Karvat refers to the saw. The saw found in the temple allegedly has a mention in a story in the scripture Skanda Purana, which Christopher Justice pens as:
Lord Krishna came one day, riding on his tiger, to test a certain king. He and his wife had only one son. Krishna demanded that they give their son up as meat for his hungry tiger. It was very important never to send a guest away hungry and, realizing it was a test, they agreed. Husband and wife, on either end of a saw, cut up their son and fed him to the tiger. Krishna was very pleased. The king was rewarded, the son was brought back to life, and the saw became famous as being a direct link to Krishna.
However, according to another theory, the Karvat stands for ‘turning body’ into the well where the saw was kept.

The other Kashi Karvat temple

Today, an entirely different temple is popularly known with the name ‘Kashi Karvat’. This temple, about which we have a separate article, was build centuries after the suicide ritual at the original Kashi Karvat was banned.
Perhaps sensible people of the city decided to take the dark past related to the Kashi Karvat temple away and call another temple with the same name, which happens to have multiple harmless legends associated; and is conveniently situated near the famous Manikarnika Ghat that one cannot pass without noticing the leaning temple.

Temple location

A Travel Story by Nishita, Varanasi and Gods of India

Varanasi - The City of God's Stories

 15th Mar 2017
The name Varanasi comes from combining Banaras and Kashi, the twin cities that are filled with culture, history and a lot of stories. Mark Twain said," Varanasi is older than history, older than legend, even older than tradition and twice as old as all of them put together." His words perfectly capture the essence of what the city has to offer for a traveler looking for solace and satisfaction.
Photo of Varanasi - The City of God's Stories 1/12 by Nitisha Pandey
I arrived in Varanasi on the morning of 15th March at 8 PM from Jamshedpur which is my hometown by the Neelanchal Express which was running late by 2 hours. I had already booked a room at Zostel Varanasi and hence took the auto from the station to the hotel. The checkin was very smooth and after freshening up, I started my wanderings around the holy city. My first stop was Pizzeria, a popular eatery by the Assi Ghat which gives you bad Pizza but an amazing view. The sun was up in all its glory which made the Ganges shimmer in blue and the sand glitter in white. I walked around the ghats for a while capturing the art on the walls and admiring the creation of God for his abode.
Photo of Varanasi - The City of God's Stories 2/12 by Nitisha Pandey
View from Pizzeria, Assi Ghat
Photo of Varanasi - The City of God's Stories 3/12 by Nitisha Pandey
Wandering around the ghats
Photo of Varanasi - The City of God's Stories 4/12 by Nitisha Pandey
I had booked the Zostel offer for the boat ride across the Ghats on the Ganges River and then viewing the famous Ganga Aarti. Our companion was Sunder who was a fabulous storyteller. We took off on his boat from Dashwamedha Ghat towards Manikarnika Ghat - the one where a thousand funerals are performed in a day. "It is an irony that we consider the holy river Ganga to clean all our sins but we aren't able to keep her clean", I thought while on the boat ride. Being present in every second of every moment that you're living while you travel makes you a tad more philosophical and aware I guess.
Photo of Varanasi - The City of God's Stories 5/12 by Nitisha Pandey
Photo of Varanasi - The City of God's Stories 6/12 by Nitisha Pandey
As the dusk approached, Sunder took us towards the Ganga Aarti which is one hell of a spectacle. Hundreds of people gather each day to witness this marvel - where belief, spirituality, religion come together in utmost coherence. I was in awe; the chants of the pandits will make you feel so clear in your mind and heart that happens when you're at peace with yourself.
Photo of Varanasi - The City of God's Stories 7/12 by Nitisha Pandey
The first day ended with trying all the delicacies at Deena Chat which very famous. Dahi Vada, Samosa Chat, Golgappa and Alloo Tikki Chat were the ones I tried and all of them were yummy. The rooftop of Zostel has a pretty ambience where you can chill for a while after a tiring day. I ordered some pasta and sandwiches for dinner and chose to call it a day.
Photo of Varanasi - The City of God's Stories 8/12 by Nitisha Pandey
Zostel Cafe
Day 2 began with super yummy breakfast comprising Kachori and Jalebi at a local shop. Then began the exploration on the outlines of the Kashi Vishwanath Temple. Since the line was very big, I choose to explore the lanes of Banaras and capture stories on the way.
Photo of Varanasi - The City of God's Stories 9/12 by Nitisha Pandey
For the love of Doors and Red.
Photo of Varanasi - The City of God's Stories 10/12 by Nitisha Pandey
It happens only in India
Photo of Varanasi - The City of God's Stories 11/12 by Nitisha Pandey
Blue Lassi shop is recommended by all locals and is a favorite of all the travelers. How could I not go there? The place has been running for almost 75 years and every person who comes by, put up their passport picture or a memory on the walls of this tiny little blue shop. The lassi was decent too.
Photo of Varanasi - The City of God's Stories 12/12 by Nitisha Pandey
With lunch at The Brown Bakery, I chose to end my day. I was taking the train to Agra in the evening which was my next stop in this travel plan.A

Banaras Ghats – True Essence of India – A travel Story


   
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A new beginning …

Banaras is one of the favorite destinations, not only for those who seek peace and serenity or those who visit for sacred reasons, but also for Photographers. A true heaven for travel Photographers, with loads of stories to share. We have a travel story shared to us by Ashwini Kapoorwith some powerful images captured in and around Banaras Ghats by him.

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Ghats in Varanasi or Banaras are riverfront steps leading to the banks of River Ganga. This city has nearly 100 ghats.Most of the ghats are bathing and puja ceremony ghats, while a few are used exclusively as cremation sites, namely Mankarnika Ghat, Harishchandra Ghat.

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The famous and oldest ghats of all these are the Dashashwamegha, the Manikarnika and the Harishchandra Ghat. Some of the ghats are made there by Hindu rulers such as Ahilya Bai Holkar of Malwa region, Peshwa’s of Gwalior, Man Singh of Amber, Jai Singh of Jaipur etc. Some of the famous personlities of Benaras have named the ghats on their own name. Munshi Ghat is after Hindi poet the Munshi Premchand, Tulsi ghat is after Hindu poet the Tulsidas who has written Ramcharitmanas. Many ghats are associated with the legends in Varanasi like the former Kashi Naresh owns Shivala or Kali ghat.

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Most of the ghats were made at the time of Maratha. Marathas, Holkars, Bhonsles, Shindes (Scindias), and Peshwes (Peshwas) has been as patrons of present-day Varanasi.
Dashashwamedh Ghat is located close to Vishwanath Temple, and is probably the most spectacular ghat. Hundreds of people gather here to view the famous Ganga aarti everyday twice, in morning and evening.
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In Hindu traditions, cremation is one of the rites of passage and the Ghats of Varanasi are considered one of the auspicious locations for this ritual.At the time of the cremation or “last rites,” a “Puja” (prayer) is performed. Hymns and mantras are recited during cremation to mark the ritual. The Manikarnika and Harishchandra Ghats are dedicated to the cremation ritual. Annually, less than 2 in 1000 people who die in India, or 25,000 to 30,000 bodies are cremated on various Varanasi Ghats; about an average of 80 per day. This practice has become controversial for the pollution it causes to the river.In 1980s, the Government of India funded a Clean Ganga initiative, to address cremation and other sources of pollution along the Ghats of Varanasi. In many cases, the cremation is done elsewhere and only the ashes are dispersed into the river near these Ghats.
Photographers would find this place as a heaven, to capture the essence of real street life, still life and some of the most candid moments of people. Life close to the banks of river ganga ( Ghats ) is beautiful in its own way. From chanting mantras, sadhus, aghoris, you would find everything here. Photography on ghats can be done either by walking or one can hire a boat and can get a panoramic view of the Ghats. You would have an option to travel on to the other bank of river ganges, which is full of sand, sun, horses, etc. I would suggest this place to everyone visiting India.

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Here are few more pics from Ashwini’s Library of clicks at Varanasi…

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